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Trumball Journal
Index
THE WASHBURN YELLOWSTONE EXPEDITION.
NO. II.
Page 7
After remaining one day in the vicinity of the
first geyser, we forded the Yellowstone just above our camp, and shaped our
course for the lake. At the ford the river was quite wide, and a narrow
bench of rock rose up from the bottom, stretching from bank to bank. On
this bench the water was about three feet deep, but on either side of it was
a foot or two deeper. In fording the stream, each man led a pack animal.
All did very well while they kept upon the bench. Occasionally some one
would get into deeper water, and become drenched, but he had the benefit of
encouraging cheers from those who had crossed in safety, and who stood ready
to welcome him upon the anticipated shore.
From the ford to the lake--a distance of about ten
miles--our course was generally through timber, much of which had been blown
down by strong winds, rendering traveling exceedingly tedious and
difficult. In open places near the river we were continually meeting with
mud-springs, some of them considerable magnitude. At one point in the river
we discovered a short series of rapids, between high, rocky banks; the one
on the east side rising to the proportion of a bluff. After fording a
stream, about one-third the size of the Yellowstone, emptying into the lake,
we camped on the edge of the timber, about a hundred yards from the
lake-shore.
Lake Yellowstone is a lonely, but lovely inland
sea, everywhere surrounded by "forests primeval," and nestled in the bosom
of the Rocky Mountains. Some trappers have insisted that its waters ran
both to the Atlantic and the Pacific, but such is not the case. The summit
of the main chain, however, approaches within half a mile of is south shore,
and in place the divide is very little above the lake. Its shape resembles
the broad hand of an honest German, who has had his forefinger and the two
adjoining shot off at the second joint, while fighting for glory and Emperor
William. The palm of the hand represents the main body, or north part, of
the lake. The fingers and thumb, spread to their utmost extent--the thumb
and little finger being much the longest--represent inlets indenting the
south shore, and stretching inland, as if to wash away the Rocky Mountains.
Between these inlets project high, rocky promontories, covered with dense
timber. The largest stream flows into the lake at its upper end, or the
extreme south-east corner. This stream is really the Yellowstone River,
which, for a distance of thirty miles, has an average width of over fifteen
miles. This enlargement constitutes the lake, which, after being augmented
by several smaller streams, narrows down to the width of an eighth of a
mile, and flows northward toward the great falls.
The mood of the lake is ever changing; the character of its shore is
ever varying. At one moment, it is placid and glassy as a calm summer's
sea; at the next, "it breaks into dimples, and laughs in the sun." Half an
hour later, beneath a stormy sky, its waters may be broken and lashed into
an angry and dangerous sea, like the short, choppy waves which rise in
storms on Lake Erie and Lake Michigan. Where we first saw it, it had a
glittering beach of gray and rock-crystal sand, but as we continued around
it, we found rocky and muddy shores, gravel beaches--on which several
varieties of chalcedony were profusely scattered--and hot springs in
abundance. Near the south-east end of the lake is the highest peak in the
vicinity. It is steep and barren, and from the lake-shore appears to taper
to a point. On the south side is a precipice, nearly a thousand feet
high. Two of the party ascended it. It took them all of one day to make
the trip and return. About two-thirds of the way up they were obliged to
leave their horses, and continue the ascent on foot. The altitude of the
mountain, as obtained by observations with the barometer and thermometer,
was 11,163 feet. Much snow was found before reaching the summit. A fine
view of the surrounding country, and a good idea of the shape of the lake,
were obtained. Immense steam-jets were seen to the south; but as our time
was becoming somewhat limited, we did not remain to visit them. Several
barometrical calculations were made; and we determined the height of the
lake to be 8,300 feet.
On the south side of the lake we found dense timber, much of which was
fallen. Through it were no trails, and traveling was exceedingly
difficult. Many large trees had fallen, with their branches clear out into
the lake, rendering it very hard to follow the lake-shore. We, however,
kept the shore as much as possible, except when we cut across the bases of
the promontories; though on one occasion we crossed a low divide in the main
chain, and camped on the head-waters of Snake River, without finding it out
for a day or two afterward. We thought the brook on which we were camped
circled around, and ran into the lake.
While straggling irregularly through the dense timber which covers the
main chain, of the party, Mr. Everts, became separated from the rest of us;
but his disappearance was unnoticed until we reached a small strip of open
country on the head-waters of Snake River. Leaving the party for a short
time, either in pursuit of game or for the purpose of viewing the country,
was not an unusual occurrence with members of the expedition; and
consequently little was thought of Mr. Everts' absence. We, however, at
once camped, and waited for him to catch up.
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