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Washburn
Report Index
YELLOWSTONE EXPEDITION OF 1870
Page 14
about 30°, between walls of the gypsum. Private
McConnell accompanied me. On entering the ravine we came at once to hot
springs of sulphur, sulphate of copper, alum, steam jets, &c., in endless
variety, some of them of very peculiar form. One of them in particular, of
sulphur, had built up a tall spire from the slope of the wall, standing out
like an enormous horn, with hot water trickling down its sides. The creek
ran on a bed of solid rock, in many places smooth and slippery, in other
obstructed by masses of dèbris formed from the overhanging cliffs of the
sulphereted limestone above. After descending for three miles in the channel
we came to a sort of bench or terrace, the same one seen previously in
following down the creek from our first camp in the basin. Here we found a
large flock of mountain sheep, very tame, and greatly astonished, no doubt,
at our sudden appearance. McConnell killed one and wounded another,
whereupon the rest disappeared, clambering up the steep walls with a
celerity truly astonishing. We were now 1,500 feet below the brink. From
here the creek channel was more precipitous, and for a mile we climbed
downward over masses of rock and fallen trees, splashing in warm water,
ducking under cascades, and skirting close against sideling places to keep
from falling into boiling caldrons in the channel. After four hours of hard
labor since leaving the horses, we finally reached the bottom of the gulf
and the margin of the Yellowstone, famished with thirst, wet and exhausted.
The river water here is quite warm and of a villainously alum and sulphurous
taste. Its margin is lined with all kinds of chemical springs, some
depositing craters of calcareous rock, others muddy, black, blue, slaty, or
reddish water. The internal heat renders the atmosphere oppressive, though a
strong breeze draws through the cañon. A frying sound comes constantly to
the ear, mingled with the rush of the current. The place abounds with
sickening and purgatorial smells. We had come down the ravine at least four
miles, and looking upward the fearful wall appeared to reach the sky. It was
about 3 o'clock p.m., and stars could be distinctly seen, so much of the
sunlight was cut off from entering the chasm. Tall pines on the extreme
verge appeared the height of two or three feet. The cañon, as before said,
was in two benches, with a plateau on either side, about half way down. This
plateau, about a hundred yards in width, looked from below like a mere shelf
against the wall; the total depth was not less than 2,500 feet, and more
probably 3,000. There are perhaps other canons longer and deeper than this
one, but surely none combining grandeur and immensity with peculiarity of
formation and profusion of volcanic or chemical phenomena.
Returning to the summit, we were five hours
reaching our horses, by which time darkness had set in, and we were without
a trail, in the dense forest, having fallen timber to evade and treacherous
marshes to cross on our way to camp. I knew the general direction, however,
and took a straight course, using great caution in threading the marshes,
wherein our horses sank in up to their bodies nevertheless. Fortune favored
us, and we arrived in camp at 11 o'clock at night, wet and chilled to the
bone. To me it was terribly fatiguing after the excitement had passed away,
as I was becoming very weak from continued loss of rest or sleep.
Eleventh day -- September 1. -- We moved out
at 10 a.m., heading the Cascade Ravine through open timber, and following
the summit of one of the low ridges to the river; striking a game trail
along its bank at a point two miles above the upper fall. The stream here
changes its character altogether, running in the center of an open glade,
bank full,
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