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Washburn
Report Index
YELLOWSTONE EXPEDITION OF 1870
Page 19
spring, having numerous spouts far out in the
water. At the mouth of the creek are large swampy districts, flooded, and
the resort of myriads of water-fowl. The sand of the beach forms a ridge on
the shore, cast up by the waters, like those seen on Lake Michigan near
Chicago. Farther down the south shore spurs of the range come down into the
basin with bluff fronts. On the south side these promontories project far
into the lake in great numbers, dividing it into bays and channels. On the
west side is a low bluff of the timbered ridges, with a sand beach in front
along the margins of the waters. The greatest width of open water in any
direction is about eighteen miles. Several islands are seen, one of which is
opposite the channel of the river and five miles from the east shore;
another is ten miles farther south, and two miles from the shore a mountain
isle with a bold bluff all around to the water's edge. These islands
doubtless have never been trodden by human footsteps, and still belong to
the regions of the unexplored. We built a raft for the purpose of attempting
to visit them, but the strong waves of the lake dashed it to pieces in an
hour. Numerous steam jets pour out from the bluffs on the shore at different
points. The waters of the lake reflect a deep blue color, are clear as
crystal, and doubtless of great depth near the center. The extreme elevation
of this great body of water, 7,714 3/5 feet, is difficult to realize. Place
Mount Washington, the pride of New England, with its base at the sea level,
at the bottom of the lake, and the clear waters of the latter would roll
2,214 feet above its summit. With the single exception of Lake Titticaeca,
Peru, it is the highest great body of water on the globe. No shells of any
description are found on the lake shore, nor is there any evidence of the
waters ever having stood at a much higher level than the present.
Twenty-five feet will cover the whole range of the water-marks. Its annual
rise and fall is about two feet. Its waters abound with trout to such an
extent that the fish at this season are in poor condition, for want of food.
No other fish are seen; no minnows, and no small trout. There are also no
clams, crabs, nor turtles -- nothing but full-grown trout. These could be
caught in mule loads by wading out a few feet in the open waters at any
point with a grasshopper bait. Two men could catch them faster than half a
dozen could clean and get them ready for the frying pan. Caught in the open
lake, their flesh was yellow; but in bays, where the water was strongly
impregnated with chemicals, it was blood-red. Many of them were full of long
white worms, woven across the interior of the body, and through to the skin
on either side. These did not appear to materially affect the condition of
the fish, which were apparently as active as the others. I had on the
previous evening been nine days and nights without sleep or rest, and was
becoming very much reduced. My hand was enormously swelled, and even
ice-water ceased to relieve the pain. I could scarcely walk at all, from
excessive weakness. The most powerful opiates had ceased to have any effect.
A consultation was held, which resulted in having the thumb split open. Mr.
Langford performed the operation in a masterly manner, dividing thumb bone
and all. An explosion ensued, followed by immediate relief. I slept through
the night, all day, and the next night, and felt much
better. To Mr. Langford, General Washburn, Mr. Stickney, and the others of
the party, I owe a lasting debt for their uniform kindness and attention in
the hour of need.
Fifteenth day -- September 5. -- We moved at
9 a.m. south, along the eastern shore, passing at intervals the extinct
craters of several springs crumbling away from the action of the waves. In
two miles we came to a low promontory, whence several steam jets arose with
a loud roar-
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Page 20
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