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Washburn
Report Index
YELLOWSTONE EXPEDITION OF 1870
Page 3
timber. Crossing a low ridge, in the afternoon, we
came in full sight of the Yellowstone Valley and stream. The view from this
point was extremely grand, covering a vista of some thirty miles along the
river of the valley, which is here several miles wide, and shut in by
volcanic mountains of immense height on the opposite side. These peaks are
of a dark lava, with ragged summits that stand out in bold relief against
the sky. Heavy masses of snow fill the upper ravines, in the summer time
feeders of hundreds of springs, which trickle through dense masses of forest
on the mountain sides. The valley descends from the foot-hills in gentle
declivities, covered with luxuriant grass, and the channels of numerous
steams come down from the ranges above on either side. Descending to the
valley we followed up the stream, camping at Butler's Ranch, eight miles
above. A few antelope were seen during the day, but no other game. Distance
traveled twenty miles. In the afternoon we met several Indians belonging to
the Crow agency, thirty miles below. In the evening a severe rain storm set
in, lasting with intervals throughout the night, and on the following
morning the mountains were covered with newly-fallen snow. We remained in
camp at Butler's until 12 o'clock on the 24th.
Third day. -- Throughout the forenoon it
rained occasional showers, but before 12 o'clock the clouds rolled away in
heavy masses along the mountain sides, the sun came out, and the atmosphere
was clear again. From this point a beautiful view is obtained; the mining
camp of Emigrant Gulch is nearly opposite, on a small steam coming down from
the mountains, on the opposite side of the river. A few settlements have
been made in this immediate vicinity, and small herds of cattle range at
will over the broad extent of the valley. Our camp was situated at the base
of the foot-hills, near a small grove, from which flowed several large
springs of clear water, capable of irrigating the whole bottom in front. The
soil here is very fertile, and lies favorably for irrigation; timber is
convenient, water everywhere abundant, and the climate for this region
remarkably mild. Residents informed me that snow seldom fell in the valley.
Stock of every kind subsist through the winter without being fed or
sheltered. Excepting the Judith Basin, I have seen no district in the
western Territories so eligible for settlement as the upper valley of the
Yellowstone. Several of the party were very successful during the morning in
fishing for trout, of which we afterward had an abundant and continued
supply. The Yellowstone here is from fifty to one hundred yards wide, and at
the lowest stage four feet deep on the riffles, running over a bed of drift
boulders and gravel, with a very rapid current. The flow of water is fully
equal to that of the Missouri at Fort Benton, owing to the rapidity of the
current, though the channel is much more narrow.
The Yellowstone trout are peculiar, being the
largest variety of the genus caught in waters flowing east. Their numbers
are perfectly fabulous, but their appetites extremely dainty. One may fish
with the finest tackle of eastern sportsmen, when the water appears to be
alive with them, all day long without a bite. Grasshoppers are their
peculiar weakness, and using them for bait the most awkward angler can fill
a champagne basket in an hour or two. They do not bite with the spiteful
greediness of eastern brook trout, but amount to much more in the way of
subsistence when caught. Their flesh is of a bright yellow color on the
inside of the body, and of a flavor unsurpassed. The barometer stood here
25.10; thermometer 40°; elevation, 4,837 feet.
We moved in the afternoon at 2:30 p.m., following
the course of the valley, crossing several small streams and numerous dry
gulches on the
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