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Washburn
Report Index
YELLOWSTONE EXPEDITION OF 1870
Page 9
from the Yellowstone, skirting along the caņon of
the former stream. The ground for that distance rises very rapidly, and is
much broken by creek beds running parallel with the river. Following the
highest ridges we presently come to a point from whence could be overlooked
the Grand Caņon, cleaving the slopes and breaking through the lofty mountain
ranges directly in front. Its perpendicular sides, wherever visible, of the
yellow sulphuric tint above described, and its crest on either side of the
river, mantled with heavy timber, extending beyond in an unbroken forest as
far as the eye could reach. This, the upper caņon of the Yellowstone, is
about twenty miles in length, reaching to the foot of the Great Falls, is
impassable throughout its whole extent, and only accessible to the water's
edge at a few points and by dint of sever labor. Through the mountain gap
formed by the caņon, and on the interior slopes some twenty miles distant,
an object now appeared, which drew a simultaneous expression of wonder from
every one in the party. A column of steam, rising from the dense woods to
the height of several hundred feet, became distinctly visible. We had all
heard fabulous stories of this region, and were somewhat skeptical of
appearances. At first it was pronounced a fire in the woods, but presently
some one noticed that the vapor rose in regular puffs, as if expelled with a
great force. Then conviction was forced upon us. It was, indeed, a great
column of steam, puffing away on the lofty mountain side, escaping with a
roaring sound audible at a long distance, even through the heavy forest. A
hearty cheer rang out at this discovery, and pressed onward with renewed
enthusiasm. Following the ridge leading to the peak nearest the caņon, and
the highest of the range, we were soon at its base; then making a detour to
the right, crossing several ugly ravines and through a gap in the ridge, we
passed over the Elephant's Back and entered the great basin of the
Yellowstone Lake. Observations were taken from the summit of the peak which
we named Mount Washburn. Noon, barometer 20.80; thermometer, 50; elevation,
9,966 feet.
The view from the summit is beyond all adequate
description. Looking northward from the base of the mountain the great
plateau stretches away to the front and left with its innumerable groves and
sparkling waters, a variegated landscape of surpassing beauty, bounded on
its extreme verge by the caņons of the Yellowstone. The pure atmosphere of
this lofty region causes every outline of tree, rock or lakelet to be
visible with wonderful distinctness, and objects twenty miles away appear as
if very near at hand. Still further to the left the snowy ranges on the
headwaters of Gardiner's river stretch away to the westward, joining those
on the head of the Gallatin, and forming, with the Elephant's Back, a
continuous chain, bending constantly to the south, the rim of the
Yellowstone Basin. On the verge of the horizon appear, like mole hills in
the distance, and far below, the white summits above the Gallatin Valley.
These never thaw during the summer months, though several thousand feet
lower than where we now stand upon the bare granite and no snow visible
near, save n the depths of shaded ravines. Beyond the plateau to the right
front is the deep valley of the East Fork bearing away eastward, and still
beyond, ragged volcanic peaks, heaped in inextricable confusion, as far as
the limit of vision extends. On the east, close beneath our feet, yawns the
immense gulf of the Grand Caņon, cutting away the bases of two mountains in
forcing a passage through the range. Its yellow walls divide the landscape
nearly in a straight line to the junction of Warm Spring Creek below. The
ragged edges of the chasm are from two hundred to five hundred yards apart,
its depth so profound that the river bed is no where visible. No sound
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